HAIR, MAKEUP, AND COSTUMES

Job Overview

Makeup artists are responsible for designing and applying the cosmetics and prosthetics worn by on-camera talent. “Makeup is necessary to render true skin tones and bring features forward for correct imaging in the final product (photos, video, live broadcast, movies, etc.),” says media makeup artist, hair and wardrobe stylist, Suzanne Patterson.

Special Skills

“A strong working knowledge of advanced color theory, lighting principles, film stocks, and camera formats,” is essential for a makeup artist, according to Patterson. “You also need knowledge in makeup principles as applied to these elements, and that includes skin tones, application techniques, cosmetic chemistry, product knowledge for proper selection, and the right tools to do the job. It is helpful to know about postproduction techniques as well. For students, take classes in school such as art (for color theory and composition), and any video or stage production classes (for camera format and lighting techniques). Oftentimes in high schools or colleges, they offer a stage makeup class, and I strongly recommend that experience. You will have a chance to study facial anatomy and work in three-dimensional makeup, a very important concept and skill to have.”

A Typical Workday

On a typical shooting day, Patterson is on the set 20 minutes before call time to set up her materials in the trailer or room designated for the makeup department. “Arriving early gives me a chance to get the kit laid out according to my script breakdown (requirements) and charts I have prepared for that day's shooting schedule (principle actors, secondary characters, etc., and the makeup requirements for each).”

Depending on the number of talent to be made up, Patterson may have a second to assist her. “I think of my seconds as more of co-equals, working with me as a team, not just assistants doing powder puff mechanic work. I pick people who have a high degree of ethics, have the skills to duplicate continuity efficiently, can work quickly and independently without oversight but in line with the key, can think on their feet, and solve problems out of their kits.” Patterson works closely with the hair and wardrobe departments to ensure that the talent is ready and on time for their scenes.

Throughout the day, makeup must be maintained to ensure continuity. Polaroid photographs are taken for reference. “If there are any makeup changes or effects scheduled, then we also take care of that. When filming wraps for the day, we take the talent back to the makeup room and remove the makeup and/or effects makeup from their faces, and bring the skin back to prefoundation status. Next, we clean up the room in prep for the next day's shoot. Then back to the hotel (if on location) or home, where I look over the next day's crew schedule, shot sheet, and script requirements and charts.”

Advice for Someone Seeking This Job

“Finish high school FIRST! Get that diploma!” says Patterson. “Hopefully, you will have had a chance to dabble in art and stage or video production classes in high school. Take a stage makeup course in college or community arts class. Get grounded in color theory because all elements in production, from makeup, set design, and wardrobe, to camera, film or tape, and lighting, are based on both subtractive and additive color theory, and the lighting is the interactive medium. You must understand gray value scale.

“One can opt to go to a formal makeup-specific school that is oriented to our industry, but above all, practice your art and skill once you acquire it, and keep a brush busy in your hand. Develop diverse skills.

“Check your ego at the door and develop good interpersonal skills and business practices. Eighty percent of success in this business is about public relations, and the rest is talent and skill. Good people skills will get your foot in the door.”

Professional Profile: Suzanne Patterson, Media Makeup Artist, Hair & Wardrobe Styling, Creative Artistry & FX

“I always had a very creative photographic eye,” says Suzanne Patterson. An accomplished costume designer specializing in period clothing, particularly from the Civil War era, she built several authentic reproduction gowns for various productions: “ … authentic right down to the smallest details and textile availabilities in that era.” While in college, as a lark, she enrolled in a stage makeup class. Excelling quickly, she was soon assisting the instructor in teaching the course.

“I started thinking seriously about makeup as a career after doing some stage productions, but I didn't want to do just straight makeup stuff—it had to be ‘push the envelope’ type of work, very color-oriented original stuff. I also wanted to work in the film and TV mediums, so early on in my budding career, I did a LOT of work for free—what is known as apprenticing—to learn the inside art of makeup and hone my skills.”

Patterson took every opportunity that came her way to hone her makeup skills, including work on UCLA and USC student films and deferred pay jobs. “Back in the days before the studio system died out and freelancing took over, apprenticing was a time honored way to learn the craft. I was fortunate to be mentored by some really great makeup artists, such as the Westmores, and Emmy Award [winning] artists like David Dittmar.

“I began to get paid assist jobs and then worked my way to keying independent films and getting onto TV shows and other features. I would have to say that I have had the blessings to work on a wide variety of productions through the years, and that has given me a wealth of knowledge and experience. All, combined, have led to my success as a national makeup artist, respected teacher, and author. I particularly enjoy giving back to my craft, by training and educating the next generation of artists.”

Patterson has worked with and designed makeup for some of Hollywood's biggest stars, such as Tim Allen, Melanie Griffith, Jennifer Love Hewitt, Don Johnson, Queen Latifah, Charlie Sheen, Arnold Schwartzenegger, and Jonathan Taylor Thomas, working on productions such as the Daytime Emmy Awards, ABC Monday Night Football, the Home Improvement television series, and commercials for Coca Cola, Lockheed-Martin Aerospace, and United Parcel Service.

Believing that her talent is a blessing from God, Patterson says she tries to give back by doing “paramedical makeup work for accident victims, cancer patients, burn victims, etc. I also teach workshops and seminars for aspiring makeup artists, and master classes to seasoned artists.”